American Sewing Guild, Lansing Chapter

Carrie K. is our resident serger expert.  Below are some of the items she shared with us at our August 8, 2016 guild meeting.

Serger thread is only 2-ply, as so many threads go through our machines, thicker thread isn't necessary. 

Decorative threads should go in the loopers, as those are the threads that show.

Some decorative threads Carrie uses are: Wooly nylon, YLI threads, Sulky cotton, embroidery threads, and Madiera Lana (it looks like wool).

For a 3-thread flatlock, tighten the lower looper tension and reduce the needle tension to the lowest setting.  Also, lengthen the thread length.  Once pulled flat, a blunt end needle threaded with thin ribbon mades a pretty addition to the flatlock.

To make gathers, use the differential feed.  Set the differential all the way up and increase the needle tension to the maximum.  Use a gathering foot to gather and attach the gathered ruffle to whatever it is you want to attach it to at the same time.

When serging on knits, set the differential between 1.5 and 2.0.

On machines that can be manually adjusted, set the looper tension so that the threads interlock at the edge of the fabric.

To lock your stitches at the beginning of a seam, serge a few stitches and pull the tail around to the front. Continue to serge, capturing the tail in the continued stitches.

To lock your stitches at the end of a seam, serge off (leaving a tail), and use a double eyed needle to weave the end tail back through the serged seam.

A 4-thread overlock seam is not any stronger than a 3-thread overlock. (I didn't know that!)

Use a 3-thread overlock on knits, as it is stretchier than the 4-thread.

For a 3-thread narrow overlock, use only the right needle.

When serging an outside curve, use one needle, as it is easier to pivot and ease the fullness in.

When serging an inside curve, gently pull the curve to make it as straight as possible without overstretching the fabric.  This same principle applies when serging inside corners.

For a nice straight edge when applying topstitched pockets, serge around the entire pocket, turn under serging, and press.

Use the blind hem to put a casing in the waist of elastic waist pants or to hem pants. This is quick and easy. Go to our Useful Links page for a Youtube video on blind hems using a serger.

For rolled hems, tighten the lower looper.

For rolled hems on chiffon, organza, or other lightweight fabrics, use a 2-thread rolled hem and a 70 or 75 needle.  Use the lower looper and the right needle. Nancy's Notions sells a spray-on stabilizer ideal for rolled hems (this tip came from Colleen B.)

For a blanket stitch, use a 2-thread flatlock stitch, put decorative thread in the needle, and  cone threadin the looper. Serge soluble stabilizer to edge of fabric.  When done, pull fabric and stabilizer to form the flatlock, and when the stabilizer is washed away, what's left is the blanker stitch.

To serge a 2 or 3-thread coverstitch, the upper looper, cutter, and stitch finger are all disengaged, and the coverstitch bed must be attached. You can do decorative stitches on quilts, or faux pintucks using a bar accessory that comes with some machines.

The chainstitch is another decorative stitch that Carrie uses.